Milan Fashion Week’s Fall/Winter 2023 season has officially come to a close, but this season’s offering opened our minds to a variety of emerging trends we can expect to see in the future.
The Italian fashion capital welcomed some of the biggest names in fashion to showcase their latest collections to industry leaders, international creatives and more. Plus, dozens of century-old labels have created their own interpretations of luxury, from the House of Gucci tribute to the Ferragamo tailoring masterclass.
This season, Milanese designers chose to push traditional boundaries with gender-defying looks instructed by a new rulebook. Several trends hopped from one runway to the next, seeing wacky furry footwear at GCDS, while Gucci delivered animalistic variations on his classic leather sandals. Office wear reinvented dominated nearly every window, supplied shredded by MM6 Maison Margiela and fastened with endless zips by Tokyo James.
For FW23, fur ensembles proved to be a staple and walked the runway in delicate shades of green at Jil Sander’s futuristic storefront and teddy bear versions at Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, motorsports inspired many, including Ferrari, which defined its own universe of luxury.
Read on to discover Hypebeast’s roundup of the biggest trends at Milan Fashion Week FW23.
Officecore looks at business
As the covid-19 pandemic fades and WFH regulations are relaxed, global workforces have prepared to relaunch the canon in the office. As a result, workers everywhere, from New York’s Wall Street lawyers to London’s creative changemakers, have returned forever to their routine office activities. Symbolizing a new dawn, the officecore trend is at an all-time high and has established its dominance at several shows at Milan Fashion Week.
As one of the most anticipated shows of the week, Bottega Veneta focused on enhanced tailoring and commanding proportions that heralded the brand’s turn into the future. Perfectly tailored striped coats were paired with patterned shirts and leather ties, while ostrich leather suites redefined the traditional office uniform with a contemporary perspective.
At Ferragamo, the asymmetrical suits featured slits cut to reveal a second layer underneath, while the wool versions featured plaid embellishments paired with ultra-short panty lines and removable hoods. In addition, Ferrari offered a different approach, anticipating racing-inspired fits with quilted details and nylon coats that snap at the waist. Lastly, Raf Simons’ Prada previewed basic suede blazers and formal skirts adorned with neutral-toned paper flowers.
all skin all
As fashion moves into a more sustainable realm, designers are following suit with faux interpretations of animal fur that mimics real fur. Cozy maines proved to be a focal point of the season, lining metallic outerwear at SUNNEI and embracing faded styles at Gucci.
While the latter looked to his archive for inspiration, the dynamic design team provided billowing long-sleeved gowns in vibrant blue fur, fur-encrusted evening gowns and a variety of elegant coats outlined with dyed animal linings. Additionally, GCDS framed suede jackets with tonal sherpa while manipulating the material to create moss-like compositions that clung to models like vests alongside mythical floor-length coats from another land.
Motorsport Looks are in their own lane
During the FW23 season, designers everywhere embraced the adrenaline rush that comes with motorsport. From motocross to racing, Milan Fashion Week welcomed the unknown by offering garments with a clear edge.
Jil Sander provided fashionistas with a futuristic offering dominated by sleek leather looks, many featuring bold embossed-brand ensembles and complementary gloves. Elsewhere, fruit-print ensembles were paired with long accessories and protective balaclavas for a protective layer while on the go. Ferrari delivered down-filled variations of classic sporty silhouettes, while Ferragamo went a route toward combinations of elevated leather with red underscores and race-ready nylon units.
Designers go back to their roots
Milan Fashion Week acts as a stage for the world’s leading designers to deliver extravagant creations, and FW23 turned out to be an emotional season for all. The brands, creative directors and designers worked together to pay homage to House’s native codes by taking a trip back in time.
For Maximilian Davis’ second collection with Ferragamo, the designer strengthened the Florentine Maison’s connection to Old Hollywood by returning to the brand’s 1950s primetime. In doing so, Davis revisited the brand’s signature styles and gave them a new life through modern redesigns. Casual looks and sporty details remained at the forefront, while bright accents and oversized bags echoed Ferragamo’s forward-thinking outlook.
Meanwhile, Gucci’s in-house design team presented its second collection after the departure of Alessandro Michele, the last before Sabato De Sarno’s debut in September. Along with dozens of creatives who have been with the brand for decades, the team chose to reinvigorate the classic Gucci uniform taken from previous collections and reflected on their journey thus far to begin a new chapter. While honoring their creative process, the team delivered laid-back suits, historic ball gowns and vintage fur outfits that defined the range.
Take a closer look at the top FW23 trends from Milan Fashion Week above.
On the other hand, Nicholas Daley FW23 “Roots to Rebel” is an ode to post-war Britain.