What is fashion? Who defines it? And where does a trend start? These are all questions with which Rossella Catapano, a professor at the Accademia Della Moda (IUAD) in Naples, began her trend forecast at the Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO) on February 10, 2023.
Trend forecasts have to do with colours, styles and materials and, for Catapano, current trends must take into account changes in the world and cultural needs. “However,” she cautions, “we must take into account the different preferences”.
It also points to the fact that the trends have been getting shorter and shorter; the so-called micro-trends, such as shoes with giant platforms, for example, barely make it to a season.
As for the scope of the trends, he says “don’t underestimate social media. The speed of global information is crucial today.” With that, new icons have emerged as fashion bloggers and influencers.
Where does a trend start?
Catapano then answers the question of what creates a trend: “It’s the need to belong; the desire for conformity, which leads to the creation of fashions and social tribes”. In this context, he mentions that gender fluid clothing fills a need.
In the post-pandemic world, Catapano reflected how loungewear has become loungewear, and dressing up also means being comfortable. In terms of materials, this means being lightweight. “Men’s fashion is now relevant and trendsetting,” he added.
Sustainability is another area that has been highlighted strongly, but he cautions that we need to distinguish between truly eco-friendly fashion and eco-laundry. Circular fashion is a keyword here, but the industry needs to be careful not only to end up with niche products at high prices. For her, only “vintage mania” is truly circular. While in Turkey, Catapano points to the country’s strong roots in artisan products. “We need to rediscover our roots and crafts,” she says.
In terms of forecasting, “the best way to predict the future is to create it,” says Catapano. At IUAD, that means working on a mood board to collect different images for inspiration. Then follow the investigation and “feel the vibe” of the collection. Storytelling is also an important part of the process, especially for customer engagement.
The most important trend that Catapano has seen is body positivity, which is here to stay, as well as going back to the roots. “This is not copying but studying and not losing your roots”, she sums up, advising especially young designers.
Key men’s and women’s fashion trends SS24
WGSN’s Director of Trend Curation Kim Mannino previewed the trends that will influence women’s and men’s fashion for SS24 in a presentation at IFCO on February 9, 2023. For Spring/Summer 2024, the trend forecast with Headquartered in New York, it predicts two key trends with several subtrends and one key story with varied key forms. The company has a team of about 300 people to predict and analyze the key trends of each season.
Key trend “Secure and connect”
“Protect & Connect” will be a key womenswear trend in Spring/Summer 2024 that is built on a sense of community and safety. The ranges remain small and focus on quality. “Less is more,” warns Mannino.
As for colors, warm tones will dominate women’s clothing such as “Fondant Pink”, “Radiant Red”, “Ocean Coral”, “Nutshell” and “Apricot Crush” in the red palette, but also the colors of the nature with “Oat Milk”, “Ground coffee”, “Pineapple”, “Seaweed”, “Nephrite” and “Green fig”. “’Mightnight Blue’ will be the darkest color, there’s no black,” says Mannino.
womenswear subthemes
Among the subthemes are “emotional minimalism” with a focus on craftsmanship and neutral colors. In general, the creations will be made to last more than one season. “Boho Surf” for summer is a vintage enhanced with a returning hippie twist, great for “using up the dead stuff,” according to Mannino.
“Minimalist Resort” will be a classic vacation sub-theme, supported by “Joyful Nautical” which handles a different take on stripes, eg unplugged. “Here we will also find comforting textures,” says Mannino.
“Prepare Wear” will focus on clothing that protects from all kinds of environmental influences like UV rays, germs, and pollution. Adjustability is also key, with laces and adaptive features. “A kind of one-size-fits-all that should help with sizing,” Mannino adds.
Then there’s “Earthly Luxury” that takes advantage of the fact that the pandemic has led people to spend more time in nature. As the name suggests, “Artisanal Touch” focuses on crafts with a bit of embroidery and appliqué. “Thrift Cult” takes advantage of the rise of vintage fashion and the fact that the second-hand look is becoming more common. In addition, different colors and textures can be combined.
“Future dressing” focuses on dressing smarter but losing more relaxed silhouettes at the same time. “This is a hybrid clothing that works at home but also at the office/evening, a kind of day/night wear,” Mannino explains.
Men’s fashion sub-themes
Men’s fashion designs are also inspired by the natural world and focus on zero waste. The color palette is slightly darker.
The sub-theme “Artisan Workwear” emphasizes jeans and workwear, while “Future Classics” goes for an extravagant look. “Horticool” emphasizes the connection to nature, while “Outdoor Prep” is a take on the world of active sports.
“Modern Nautical” combines stripes with off-white and “Natural Craft” is all about getting creative. “Nostalgic Retro” goes for a mid-century design, channeling the pre-digital era of the ’70s and ’80s with flared or high-waisted pants. Last but not least is “Raw Luxury” which focuses on beautiful materials and textures as well as timeless pieces.
feel landscapes
The second key theme will merge the natural with the technical, thus connecting the physical world with the virtual. “Sense Scapes” will have an organic yet digitally enhanced look whose bright colors are inspired by the worlds of games and the metaverse. “Pink Diamond”, “Pink Flash” and “Radiant Red” stand out here in women’s fashion, supported by “Mellow Peach” and “Parchment”.
“Fresh Mint”, “Sage Leaf”, “Tidal Teal” and “Adriatic Sea” take advantage of the blue spectrum, while “Gentle Lavender”, “Purple Swirl” and “Black” complete the color palette. For men’s fashion, there are “Cyber Lime”, “Nutshell”, “Sea Kelp”, “Fondant Pink” and “Green Fig”, as well as “Astro Dust”, “Italian Clay” and “Terracotta” among the shades reds. They are backed by “Tidal Teal”, “Adriatic Sea”, “Cornflower”, and “Pineapple”.
subtopics
There are nine womenswear subthemes and seven menswear subthemes that follow the theme suggested by “Sense Scapes”: “Bohemian Alchemist” combines Boho-chic with astrology and spirituality, but is also a hippie throwback and therefore an opportunity to use dead material.
“Solar Punk” is a sci-fi-inspired sub-track that delves into the fantastic with rich colors and florals inspired by virtual worlds. “Scavenged Beauty” incorporates elements such as shells, stones, minerals and crystals and even metal and macrame. “Synesthesia” taps into sensory experiences with striking colors and patterns, similar to “Otherworldly Glamour.”
“Tropadelic Office” uses brights on dark colors, while “Ocean Wonders” taps into our fascination with the ocean, using distorted tints and umbra. “Serene Futurism” taps into SS23 layering, soft pastels, and delicate fabrics, while “Digital Dune” references the desert landscape.
For menswear, the subthemes consist of “Gaming Lounge” with bright colors, “Powered by Nature” with earth tones, “Postmodern Safari”, “Tropadelic Office” and “Synesthesia”, as well as womenswear, “Pyjama Dressing” and “Soft function”.
Key Story: “Creative Confidence”
“Creative Confidence” follows lateral thinking and circular design, which translates into innovative techniques and exuberant, artful womenswear. “Life can be hard and this trend is all about staying as positive as we can,” Mannino says.
“Statement Simplicity”, “Indie Glow”, “Illusion”, “Satori-all”, “Find Your Way”, “Sartorial Sports”, “Amped-up Retro” and “Surreal Warping” are the sub-themes for women’s clothing , while men’s fashion can expand into “Main Character Energy”, “Enhanced Energy/Day”, “Vibrant Vacation”, “Nightlife”, “Masculinity Redefined”, “Retro Sports Resort” and “Pop Utility” .
The key forms among the woven blouses are the peasant blouse, the wrap top, the jean shirt, or the oversized shirt. In dresses, there’s the wrap dress, the body-conscious dress, the cut-out dress, the slip dress, and the modern occasion dress. Among the points, vests, round necks, V-necks, turtlenecks and cardigans round out the selection.
Skirts can be wrap, flare, short, or pencil, while pants can be wide-legged or flared. With blazers, light trench coats, utility jackets, travel jackets or padded jackets, there is also variety in this segment.